A Valpolicella that, in the glass, is not Valpolicella. This is how one might summarize the philosophy behind La Collina dei Ciliegi, a winery based in Erbin in Valpantena, which for over a decade has pursued a path of research and experimentation aimed at redefining the identity of its territory. Today, with the launch of the “Supervalpantena” Prea Rosso Verona IGT 2021, a new chapter begins — just over a year after the release of its “different twin,” Prea Bianco 2021. Two wines that share the same vision: that of a terroir expressing itself beyond the boundaries of the Denomination.
The Terroir Is Stronger Than the Grape Variety: La Collina dei Ciliegi and Soil Research
“The terroir is stronger than the grape variety,” as Aubert de Villaine once said. This concept is fully embraced by Massimo Gianolli, president of La Collina dei Ciliegi, and his team. It was in the spring of 2016 that a collaboration began with Christian Roger and renowned agronomists Lydia and Claude Bourguignon — world-famous soil scientists — to deeply investigate the pedoclimatic characteristics of the Erbin area.
“From the joint analysis of the wines produced up to that point,” Gianolli explains, “came the conviction that La Collina dei Ciliegi could represent an innovative wine project even beyond the boundaries of the DOC.”
The studies conducted in 2017 by the Bourguignons, through core sampling and stratigraphic analysis, revealed that the soils of Erbin — of Cretaceous origin and never subjected to intensive farming — possess extraordinary richness in active limestone and minerals. A “living” soil, particularly suited — in some parcels — to white wine production.
The researchers identified Garganega and Corvina as the best interpreters of this terroir, recommending high-density planting (7,700 vines/ha), quality-oriented rootstocks, and no alteration of the original topography, to preserve the natural balance of the land.
Between 2018 and 2023, the estate saw the planting of over 28 hectares of new vineyards at altitudes between 550 and 700 meters, with yields kept between 40 and 60 quintals per hectare.
Winemaker Paolo Posenato now transforms these precious grapes into wines that reflect the same parcel-based approach as the vineyard, using various aging materials — concrete, terracotta, ceramic, and French oak — to faithfully convey the complexity of the terroir.
The Innovation of “Supervalpantena” Prea Rosso Verona IGT 2021
The Erbin estate spans 68 contiguous hectares of woods, meadows, and vineyards: 17 hectares fall within the Valpolicella DOC, while 28 hectares give rise to the “Supervalpantena” IGT. Among the most representative parcels is Prea, located between 570 and 620 meters above sea level, from which comes the range that now embodies the new identity of La Collina dei Ciliegi. Here, Garganega coexists with Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco for Prea Bianco, and Corvina with a small percentage of Teroldego for Prea Rosso.
The name “Prea,” which means “stone” in the Veronese dialect, refers to the marl-limestone soil, poor in topsoil and rich in skeletal material of Cretaceous origin. The high altitudes and strong temperature fluctuations promote acidity and tension, resulting in wines with pronounced sapidity and a mineral profile.
Prea Rosso 2021 is a white wine disguised as a red: dynamic, taut, with clear fruit and sweet, fine tannins. It’s spring in a glass. A wine that translates the freshness and sapidity of the soil into elegance and drinkability.
The Corvina and Teroldego grapes are harvested manually at different times, following optimal ripeness. After fermentation in concrete, the wine ages for 24 months in French oak barrels and tonneaux, with a small portion in terracotta amphora, followed by an additional year of rest in concrete.
Alongside It, Prea Bianco IGT 2022 — the Second Vintage — Expresses the Same Philosophy.
Fine, vertical, and modern, it is fermented in temperature-controlled concrete tanks and matures for two years between concrete and ceramic amphorae, with an additional six months of bottle aging. In this case, the roles are reversed: it’s a white wine disguised as a red. Contemporary, savory, and linear, it boasts remarkable aging potential — enjoyable now, but even better with time.
These two wines define the Prea project, through which La Collina dei Ciliegi offers a new interpretation of Valpantena: a zone that, thanks to research and deep respect for the land, now speaks its own language, beyond the conventions of tradition. A new testament to the idea that even in Valpolicella, the future lies in understanding the soil — and in the ability to listen to it.
